Italy Panorama

Typical Italian mercato vendor

Stroll through any mercato (weekly market) in Italy and you’ll eventually be hit with the wafting aroma of herb-scented roasting meat. Porchetta is classic street fare, proffered from mobile stands. It is also fair food, starring as the headliner of many a town festival and people all over the peninsula go hog wild for it.

Porchetta is the whole hog. A small pig is gutted and boned, then stuffed with herbs like rosemary, fennel and garlic, along with pork fat and seasonings. It is sewn up and roasted whole on a spit over a wood fire for hours to achieve a crispy, flavorful skin while creating moist, savory meat.

Porchetta ready for eating

Porchetta dates back to ancient times. Some say it originated with the Etruscans, though no historical records were left to back this up. It certainly was in vogue during the Roman era, as ancient writers mention it dating back to 400 BC and it was a favorite meal of Emperor Nero. It was often served at grand Roman banquets.

It enjoyed a resurgence in the Middle Ages, particularly in the central regions of Lazio, Abruzzo, Umbria and Tuscany. Today, the classic dish is more popular than ever nationwide. It can be found in supermarkets, some meat markets, and shops called rosticceria, where rotisserie meats are made fresh daily. Street fairs are dedicated to it, with three or four spits turning at once to meet demand.

Next time you’re in the mercato ask for a sample, and you’ll see why the country is addicted to its porchetta.