Italy Panorama

Amatrice

Amatrice, Lazio

The compact, picturesque stone and stucco town of Amatrice rests just off the ancient via Salaria, in western Lazio where it nearly kisses Abruzzo.  Here the mountains loom larger and the landscape grows more intensely rugged.  Driving along the lovely valley you skirt a small lake. The setting alone is worth the trip to Amatrice, its pastoral position seems to sit just below the clouds.

The place gives off an aura of relaxed energy.  Outdoorsy gear and casual wear are de rigueur.  A major influx of summer visitors are attracted to the nearby national park, Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga, while winter travelers find skiing and snow-showing.

A sign of great food ahead

But the real attraction to the town is signposted at a crossroads:  Amatrice – la Citta degli Spaghetti. Amatrice – Spaghetti City.

Spaghetti all’Amatriciana originated here and spread the length of the peninsula.  It is known and loved by all Italians, though inevitable regional variations have crept in.  Romans often try to claim it as their own, though they use bucatini instead of spaghetti, and frequently make it using onion and garlic, the addition of which the good Amatriciani say is akin to blasphemy. They should know; they’ve been making this plate for many generations.  The town isn’t labeled Spaghetti City for nothing!

The original “matriciana” was made in bianco, without tomatoes. Shepherds used cured guanciale (a type of bacon made from the cheek) and their own abundant pecorino cheese to flavor their pasta.  The three necessary ingredients, dry spaghetti, cured pork, and aged cheese, were very transportable and didn’t require refrigeration.  This older version of the dish is also known as Gricia.  Eventually, tomatoes got thrown into the pot, and a famous dish was born.

Courtesy of inuyaki.com

There are numerous restaurants and agriturismos offering the town’s claim to fame, but our favorite is the humble Trattoria del Lago.  The unassuming restaurant is on the outskirts of Amatrice along the little lake, Lago di Scandarello, in a non-descript building.  The bustling trattoria is easy to miss, except for the cars lining the curvy road.

Trattoria del Lago serves the famed Spaghetti mounded up on the plate with nice, coarsely-grated pecorino cheese dotting the top.  A carafe of vino rosso and a side dish to round it off is all you’ll need.  One bite and you’ll see why Amatrice is known for its culinary contribution to the country.

Trattoria del Lago