Italy Panorama

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Trattoria da Middio
Ascoli Piceno, Marche Province

This unobtrusive eatery is easy to miss; at first pass it looks like an ordinary shop window.  Those fortunate enough to find it – and find an open table – will be amply rewarded.  You may be seated at an already-occupied table in communal fashion in order to fit you in.

This trattoria started life as a coffee bar run by the lovable Middio, and turned into a full-fledged eatery.  Middio passed away, but his legacy is carried on, run by an all-female family staff.

Unabashedly Communist, the owners have the sickle and hammer prominently featured on their receipts and shirts, cutely replacing the hammer with a fork, and pride themselves in serving delicious regional fare at egalitarian prices.

This is a good choice for vegetarians as they always have a couple vegetable-based pasta plates and will happily serve their insalata di farro (cold spelt salad) as a main dish upon request.

Reservations are recommended if you don’t want to risk being turned away.  At dinner there is an ample spread of antipasti, as many as eight different items will appear; tell them when you’ve had enough and are ready to move on to the primi.

The menu changes constantly and is recited, though a sampling of what may possibly be among the offerings is posted on the door.  The penne with zucchini is noteworthy, as is the orrechiette with peppery broccoletti.  Secondi (main dishes) usually feature lamb, veal and/or pork in some form, but also sometimes chicken and fish dishes.  Contorni are basic, normally tending toward potatoes, salad and sautéed greens, or peas with prosciutto.

There is a fair selection of regional wines, including some nice organic samplings.  We’ve never been offered dessert but nor have we inquired; we are always too full by the end of every meal.

If you aren't careful, you might walk past it.

Via delle Canterine.  Closed Sunday and Monday.
Trattoria da Middio is a member of Slow Food.