Car RentalsQuiet Nights and Delicious Dining – Down on the Farm
What is an agriturismo?
If rolling hills, silent nights, and starry skies are your idea of the perfect vacation location, then an agriturismo is the place for you. While “agriturismo” means farm-stay, it doesn’t mean you have to work the fields or slave for your supper. It means you get to stay in bed-and-breakfast accommodations on a working farm, where you’ll get to relax, interact with the family, and enjoy the idyllic atmosphere of Italy’s countryside.
Many agriturismo establishments have gone upscale, offering swimming pools, suites with fireplaces, or apartments with kitchens and space to spread out. Some have horses for riding, while others offer cooking classes, wine tasting, or special theme evenings. Most remain B&Bs, with farm-fresh breakfasts and dinners prepared with produce from the farm. They almost always offer excellent value for the accommodations, costing less than a hotel while providing a more unique and intimate atmosphere.
While agriturismi are found in every region of Italy, let’s look at one in my region of Basilicata, in southern Italy, as an example of what you can expect to find at an agriturismo. La Foresteria di San Leo was once a hermitage for an order of monks who built a chapel and rooming quarters as a prayer retreat. The stone-built structure has been restored and turned into lovely lodgings and a romantic restaurant.
View of the Dolomite Lucane
Views sweep over the orchards and hills to the rugged, spire-like peaks of the nearby mountains, known as the Dolomiti Lucane. Warm smiles and coffee or a glass of wine from the owners, Maria Giovanna and Peppino, welcome guests in familial fashion.
The farm is extensive and includes hills of wheat, stands of fruit trees, and woods where truffles and mushrooms can be found. They raise sheep for meat and wool, and make decadent cheeses from the milk, including a soft pecorino encased in walnuts and the creamiest ricotta I’ve ever eaten. They have a huge garden which they fully utilize in the kitchen to serve up local dishes bursting with the fresh flavors of the just-picked produce. Only regional recipes are prepared and the presentation of the dishes is beautiful.
Rooms are warm and cozy with wood and stone accents, maintaining a country-rustic feel while providing desired modern comforts like ensuite bathrooms, climate control, and televisions. They are quiet, as you would expect in the countryside, so sleep comes easily. In the morning, fresh-made crostata and pastries, along with home-made jams and cheeses await, served with your preferred caffé beverage and juice.
So what can you do out in the boondocks? There is a swimming pool for summer splash-downs, bicycles for the many back-roads, hiking trails, and woods for foraging funghi. Stargazing is at its best in this country locale where there is no light pollution to obstruct the brilliance of the heavenly skies. Since a car is necessary when visiting an agriturismo, you’re in a position to employ the Slow Travel credo of “concentric circles” to explore the surrounding hill towns and archeological sites. Or you can just stay put and observe nature while sipping a cappuccino or a glass of local Aglianico. Breathing the fresh, pure air and enjoying silence is part of the appeal of staying in the country.
We seek out agriturismi wherever we travel in Italy as they present a good lodging value, give us an authentic experience, and allow us to interact with the owners (who direct us to the best places to eat, the local attractions and seasonal events). If you’ve never tried one, you should! You’ll not want to stay in a large, impersonal hotel again!
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