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 Sassi Barisano, Matera Osteria Il Vicinato, Sasso Barisano, Matera (Basilicata)
This tiny osteria is not for everyone. If you like starched tablecloths, spiffed-up surroundings, and discreet service, then I guarantee you will not like this place. If, on the other hand, you go for homey, casual, and personal interaction with the owner, then book one of the meager six tables and settle in for an experience.
The owner is a true Materano and a real character. His accent is as thick as the slabs of semolina bread he serves, a regional specialty that is baked in a wood-fired oven. He is hearty and warm and outspoken. “Hey, this is an osteria,” he told the occupants of the table next to us as they painstakingly tried to slice bruschetta topped with ripe tomatoes. “Pick it up and eat it with your hands! Osteria means down-home! You can eat with your hands here!”
There is a short and sweet written menu, along with a couple of daily specials that they will recite, and then the owner will weigh in on what he thinks you should eat. “I have a lamb stew, but it’s not very good today. All the good lamb is finito, being just after Easter,” he informed us.
You can choose either homemade fresh pastas or pasta asciutto (dry, packaged pasta) with a variety of sauces, which vary depending on season. The vegetable-based sauce I chose was like an early spring garden bursting with broccoli, chard, fresh fava beans, cherry tomato pieces, and asparagus. Everything is fresh; if it’s not made in his own kitchen it comes from a family member -the cheese and salami on the antipasto plate were made by his cousin.
The grigliata mista was a bowl brimming with fragrant, grilled meat…lots of it. When we were getting too full to finish, the owner came and pointed to the remaining sausage, “Mangia! Eat up! The salsiccia is the best part!”
The three Italian ladies at the corner table wanted a photo with him; turns out he is a celebrity of sorts, having had a colorful part in a movie that was filmed in Matera and won an award in Torino. He was happy to oblige while joking, “Yessss, I’m a big shot! Now back to washing dishes I go!”
If you are looking for good, honest food at a good price with very personal interactions, then rush on over to Osteria Il Vicinato. It’s easily accessible on via Fiorentini at the bottom of Sasso Barisano.
 Aliano Aliano seems to bask in its infamy. Seventy years ago it had been a typical peasant village in remote southern Basilicata, scraping to survive, and ignored and derided by Italy’s central government. It would have remained hidden and forgotten in its lunar-like hills had it not been paid a visit by destiny.
When the Mussolini government wanted to silence the political writings and rabble-rousing of a Jewish doctor and anti-Fascist named Carlo Levi, it could think of no punishment more severe than banishment from his northern city of Torino to the hinterlands of Basilicata, in Italy’s southern instep. Modern communications and northern news filtered very slowly- if at all- from there, so Levi and his inflammatory activism would be safely out of their dictatorial hair.
 Tribute to Levi Levi arrived in Aliano to find an abject poverty in stark contrast of his prosperous home region, which seemed a world away. The remote locale was neglected and remained outside of time while resources were focused on northern industrial technologies and interests. Levi spent his year of political exile in Aliano under house arrest, acting as town physician while painting local scenes and characters, and taking detailed journalistic notes which he would use to write his well-known book, Christ Stopped at Eboli. From his stone house on the edge of the village, Levi observed, interacted with, tended to, painted, and chronicled the life, hardships, and contrasts of a place within his own country that was foreign to him.
When he was released from his house arrest, Levi penned his most famous work which shed light on the political, economic and social problems of the south, and would eventually bring attention and change to the region. And the town of Aliano could not have been more grateful.
Today, Aliano is still small and still remote, but the appearance, well-being and status of the town are very different thanks to Levi, whose writings and presence continue to live on there. Many of the buildings have been spruced up and restructured, with more work obviously underway. The place looks tended to and cared for, unlike the descriptions of squalor that Levi chronicled upon his arrival.
Inhabitants parade the streets, gather in the piazza and coffee bars, and smile their friendly greetings at visitors. Tourists from across Italy come on a sort of pilgrimage, clutching dog-eared copies of the book, and cars bearing license plates from other European countries are parked in the municipal lot. The hamlet pays homage to their famous guest with numerous namings in his honor – a street, piazza, coffee bar, restaurant are all dubbed Carlo Levi. A statue of him stands at the entrance to town.
Aliano has been designated a “literary park,” making it a sort of open-air museum. Plaques with quotes of Levi’s descriptions are affixed to buildings so visitors can tour the town and see it through his eyes and words.
The house of his interment has been preserved and turned into a museum containing documents and lithographs donated by Levi. Many of his paintings are on display in the Museo della Civilta` Contadina (Museum of Peasant Culture).
 Levi's tomb It was Carlo Levi’s request to be buried in Aliano and his grave lies in a panoramic spot in the cemetery up above the village. It is sprinkled with pebbles left by visitors to show how beloved he was.
Aliano is isolated on top of a hill with commanding views of the weirdly-eroded countryside and surrounding mountains. The town has come a long way since their illustrious guest came to stay, but the timelessness of their traditions and the splendor of their natural surroundings are unchanged. Nor is their affection for the man who served them so well and continues to impact their well-being.
 The "calanchi" hills around Aliano
On your next trip to the Eternal City, forget the hellish souvenirs one often finds -does Grandma really need a glow-in-the-dark plastic statuette of the Pope?- and opt instead to bring your loved ones a more enduring gift from Rome created by some of the country’s most long-standing artisans – monks.
Ai Monasteri, located on Corso del Rinascimento just off the Piazza Navona, sells a variety of wares, all handmade in the numerous monasteries throughout the peninsula. The herbal soaps and lotions are heavenly; the homemade liqueurs, divine. And friends will swoon over the homegrown honeys and jams. Other items include medicinal tinctures, cosmetics, olive oil and vinegar-check out the fermented-honey vinegar- and candies.
The monasteries are supported by your purchases and your loved ones receiving these unusual but useful gifts will bless you for it. Best of all, with prices such as 4 Euros for hand-crafted herbal soap, your wallet won’t be condemned to budget purgatory.
Ai Monasteri, Corso Rinascimento 72, Rome Phone: 39 06 688-02783
 Bella Italia 2010 Calendar Are you looking for a special reminder of unique places in Italy then this calendar is just what you need. Twelve pictures of unique places and events in Italy that you will only find on Italy Panorama for only $18.50.
 Polenta sulla Spianatoia Polenta on a Board
Polenta is a common winter dish throughout Italy. It is warm, hearty and filling, the perfect hot remedy on a cold, blustery day. While polenta is particularly popular in the north, the central mountain regions have a traditional way of serving it that takes the humble dish to a jovial, communal level.
Polentone (big polenta) is also known as polenta sulla spianatoia, or polenta on a pastry board. It seems to have originated in Abruzzo – or at least they claim it as their own, calling this presentation polenta all’abruzzese – though the surrounding mountain regions of Marche, Lazio and Umbria serve it up as well.
 Pouring out the polenta The traditional method uses stone-ground cornmeal, which is cooked in a copper cauldron over a wood fire and is stirred with a long, thick wooden stick. Nowadays, many cooks prefer to opt for the quick-cooking polenta on a stovetop, which whittles the fatiguing stirring time from forty minutes down to about five minutes.
The polenta is cooked until it is soft but not firm, then it is poured out onto a pastry board and smoothed out with a wooden paddle. It is topped with a rich tomato sauce, dusted generously with aged, coarsely-grated pecorino cheese, and dotted with pieces of sausage or mushrooms.
 Adding the sauce, meats and pecorino This rustic dish is fun to eat; everyone gathers round the table and eats directly from the spianatoia. To get to the meat or mushrooms, you must fare una strada (make a path) to them through the polenta. Kids try to cheat and little fork duels erupt as each tries to protect their polenta turf. It is an entertaining and interactive meal, complimented with hearty red wine and good company.
 Family, friends and food...a perfect combination. Want to try it at home? Here’s a recipe.
Lots of various polenta recipes are found on Kyle Phillips’ site.
 Life size presepio Italian Nativity Scenes
One of Italy’s most enduring and endearing Christmas traditions is the presepio, or nativity scene. All around the country they are erected – from simple mangers to elaborate, functioning towns – in honor of Jesus’ birth. They are set up in piazzas, in grottoes, and in nearly every church. Much thought and work goes into constructing the annual scenes, which are usually unveiled on Christmas Eve and remain on display through Epiphany, January 6.
The nativity is said to have originated in Assisi, first initiated by Saint Francis. His birthplace is one of the best towns to view a wide array of them, including an open-air life-sized scene on the lawn in front of the basilica devoted to the kindly saint.
 Presepio in Assisi There are many mangers from around the world displayed in the heart-felt church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Set in the valley below Assisi’s steep streets, the church was erected around the humble little chapel where St. Francis preached. Despite its size the church has an air of lightness and spirituality. It feels warm and welcoming.
The manger scenes on display range from large, ceramic villages to simple, hand-knit figures, many donated from parishes and individuals world wide, containing symbols and materials to denote each country’s culture.
In Rome’s Piazza del Popolo an annual exhibit called 100 Presepi takes place, with an array of whimsical, cute and outlandish representations of the nativity. Not far away in the Imperial Forum is the International Nativity Museum (il Museo Internazionale del Presepio) which displays a large collection of historic and artistic nativity figures in an underground chamber. Though it has strange opening hours, it is well worth a visit.
Living nativities, or presepi vivanti, are popular throughout the peninsula. They do not consist of merely a few people in costume but instead are elaborate reenactments of ancient life, with artisans and shepherds playing out their roles vibrantly in open-air venues. One such beautiful living nativity can be found in Cerveteri, about an hour from Rome.
 A living presepio at Cerveteri Presepi are the most popular holiday decoration in Italy, and many make it an annual tradition to stroll from church to church to see the different displays.
However you celebrate the holiday, Italy Panorama wishes you a Buon Natale!
 A child's precious work
Signs of Autunno
You know that autumn has arrived when the vendemmia has been completed. Once the vines are barren of fruit, the leaves change color, and the vineyards become ordered rows of autumnal tints, speckled in yellow and red.
 Chestnut roasting But the clearest sign of fall is seen in the seasonal specialties. The emphasis shifts from summer fare and grilled goodies to heavier dishes like polenta and fall foods like mushrooms and truffles foraged from the mountains. The main event this time of year is the chestnut. They are proffered from roadside stands, in the weekly mercato, and the grocery store. There are many sagra events that focus solely on the versatile humble nut.
Italian ingenuity brings the chestnut into play -and onto the plate – in many different ways. It can be dried and ground into flour, which makes a rather tasty sweet bread; it can be roasted and turned into a sweet paste that is used to fill sweet ravioli, usually in conjunction with cocoa; and it can be used to make gnocchi (good with a gorgonzola sauce) or polenta. Another treat is the marron glace’ which are often topped with a bit of whole-milk or honey-sweetened yogurt. The best marron glace’ are the ones that have been carmelized in sugar syrup and then soaked in liquor.
Chestnut vendors are careful to keep a distinction between castagne and marroni. The dictionary translates both simple as “chestnut” but marroni can cost quite a bit more. So, what is the difference?
For the answer, we asked a grower/vendor at a sagra in Castignano, a town whose very name derives from chestnuts (castagno means chestnut tree). If anyone knew the difference it would be a Castignanese.
He kindly and patiently informed us that castagne are just your common chestnuts which grow wildly and naturally all over the place. Anyone can go into the woods and forage for these run of the mill nuts. They grow three to a pod, encased together in their furry outer shell. Marroni, instead, are a cultivated hybrid…the Cadillac of chestnuts, if you will. The nut inside is shinier, sweeter and plumper than a common chestnut. They also peel out of their skin much more easily once they’ve been roasted.
 Castagne vendors So how can you tell the difference when they’re piled up on the vendor’s table? Simple, he said. The “white” of a marrone is elongated- narrow and oval, almost rectangular. The castagna has a rounder, darker-colored marking.
Despite the varied, creative ways that Italians utilize chestnuts, the most popular way to eat them is still the simplest: freshly roasted until the skins darken and can be peeled off. They are traditionally served with vino nuovo, new wine, and the two items take center stage as the headliners for the Festa di San Martino, the feast day of St. Martin, on November 11, when both are in full season.
Viva autunno.
Grocery Shops Decoded
The best places to go for the freshest local ingredients in season are usually just a short walk away. Italians take cooking very seriously, so the main shopping experience you find in even the smallest of hamlets is focused on the food shops.
 Fruttivendolo Your smallest shops are the fruttivendolo where you buy fresh fruits and vegetables, where the goods are almost exclusively locally grown and in season. They are generally scattered about in neighborhoods, but are often so small they are easy to miss unless they have crates of goodies set up outside. The proprietor will likely tuck in some herbs or garlic to season your sauce with.
Similar to the fruttivendolo is the macelleria for meats and the forno for breads. These establishments are small but the owners make them unique with their personal service. They will grind meat fresh on demand, and cut off the size of loaf you desire in a flash.
A neighborhood grocery is the alimentari which may carry fruits, vegetables, bread, milk, and some other items – but especially cured meats and cheeses. These shops are family run and the proprietors are always knowledgeable about their products, and often know who produced the local delicacies (if their own family didn’t make them!).
The supermercato is a regular grocery store, larger than an alimentari shop, yet often still located in a neighborhood. They are usually locally owned but aligned with a national consortium for buying power.
 A typical alimentari interior At the top of the food chain (pun intended) is the ipermercato, the Italian rendition of the superstore. They are enormous and carry a little bit of everything yet lack the personal one-to-one service you will find at the smaller neighborhood establishments. These stores may stand alone form the central focus at a centro commerciale (shopping mall). Selection is huge, but they often carry national products rather than locally grown or produced goods.
In a historic center you can locate all the primary ingredients you need from the small locally owned shops, along with the weekly mercato. It’s a pleasant experience to walk between the small shops, interact with the owners, and maybe stop for a caffe along the way.
 Bread from Matera Timbro di Pane
We always say that the further south you travel down the peninsula, the richer the coffee gets and the better the bread gets. Lifeless, salt-less Tuscan bread cannot hold a candle to the thick, crusty loaves you find in Puglia and Basilicata. So famous and delicious is their pane that they have been granted the DOP designation, a marker of regional authenticity.
Matera DOP and Altamura DOP honor those cities’ commitment to producing bread the old-fashioned way, but this traditional product is not limited to those two towns alone; it is found throughout the southern regions, still made the way it has been for generations. Some even claim that this particular bread dates back to Roman times, and claim that Horace referred to it in a letter in 37 AD!
 You can just smell it! The large loaves have a soft golden interior, because it is made with finely milled semola flour (hard durum wheat which is also used to make pasta). The crisp crust is sometimes splotched with black marks from wood-fired ovens. Natural leavening known as lievito madre or biga, is used, with a piece of dough always being reserved for the next round of baking. The lumpy, irregular loaves are said to reflect the peculiar landscape of the Murgia.
Long before the bread was designated with its prestigious DOP status, however, it was marked in another way – with a timbro di pane. Bread stamps were used to imprint a symbol or initial onto the top of the loaf to designate who the bread belonged to, as it was baked in communal ovens.
 A wood timbro di pane The women prepared and kneaded the dough in the evening, left the bread to rise, stamped it with their seal, and a baker came to take the dough to town, or a nearby masseria in the case of rural folks, for baking. Bread ovens were –and often still are – fueled by olive and oak wood. The finished bread was then retrieved by the family for the next several days’ consumption.
Nothing was wasted. Dough scraps were fried in oil and dusted with sugar as a treat for the children, and crumbs from the very crusty bread were reserved to be sautéed in olive oil with garlic and peperoncino and sprinkled as a topping on the pasta, an everyday garnish still enjoyed throughout these regions today.
The timbri di pane were often made of wood, carved into fanciful shapes by local shepherds. Others were forged in iron or cast in terracotta. Many families still have their grandmother’s timbro on display in their kitchens, a reminder that while bread generally is no longer kneaded at home, the ancient tradition is still very much alive and treasured, and preserved by countless bakeries.
 Tmbri styles
 Arco di Traiano Ancona is the capital of the Marche Region and has been a major Adriatic port for more than two millennium. It was one of the main debarking points for European crusaders during the Middle Ages. Today’s port is industrial, with heavy shipping, cruise ship and ferry traffic. It was rebuilt after heavy bombing damage during World War II, but contains some unique finds amongst the drab.
The Arco di Traiano, built in 115 to honor the Emperor Trajan (Traiano) who was instrumental in expanding and improving this most important Roman Adriatic port. This marble structure stands almost six stories high and originally had large brass statues of Trajan, his wife Plotina and his sister Marciana. The arch originally dominated the port as a landmark for approaching ships but now looks rather small compared to the towering cranes of a busy modern port.
 Duomo di San Ciriaco Situated above the sea is the Cathedral of San Ciriaco, which provides good views of the port and Adriatic to the east. If you like to watch the ships come and go this is a great vantage point. The duomo is an interesting medieval church with stone lions standing guard at the door and a simple but elegant interior. From this location, the highest in the city, you also have a view of some Roman era ruins to the north that currently are not accessible.
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